A month in BVI

It’s hard to believe a month has passed since we arrived to the British Virgin Islands. Yesterday P went into Road Town to extend us for another 60 days. I doubt we’ll stay that long, but you never know. ‘The best laid plans …’ and all that.

So I’ve been procrastinating getting to this blogging. I’ve let a good deal of time pass since I last wrote, leaving me with a wealth of information to share with you. My goal is to not bore you to tears, but forgive me if I do.

A typical light morning shower in North Sound complete with rainbow
A typical light morning shower in North Sound complete with rainbow

Let me begin with all the Salty Dawg activities we’ve been enjoying. Many, many happy hours at many, many bars (Saba Rock, Bitter End Crawl Pub and Merimark Bars, CCYS-Esmeraldas, Fat Virgin, and Hog Heaven). Hog Heaven involved a good deal of coordination by Matt and Karen on Gypsy that involved a ferry ride and taxis up to the top of Virgin Gorda.

The expansive view of North Sound from Hog Heaven
The expansive view of North Sound from Hog Heaven

Judy from Rum Runner did the coordination for daily yoga classes at Biras Creek. She also did the organizing for the CCYS happy hours where we were treated to free appetizers on our first visit. We also celebrated our arrival with a dinner at the Bitter End with majority of the Dawgs that made the trip to BVI. Believe it or not, we also skipped a few events such as pizza night. We enjoyed all these events while on free moorings provided by the Bitter End Yacht Club. There are so many perks to being a part of this group not to mention the many friends we’ve made.

For thanksgiving we celebrated on the Wednesday (we were allowed to use the beach chairs and tables belonging to the bar as long as there was no cruise ship in port – which is why we celebrated a day early) with what turned out to be an excellent pot luck on the beach at Prickly Pear. We brought Charlie along to play with the other dogs, but he is a fussy one and only plays with Zoe. Dezi, Spinnacker and Nigel got the usual growls from him as he hid beneath my legs.

Blue Sky enroute to Anegada (photo courtesy of Chill)
Blue Sky enroute to Anegada (photo courtesy of Chill)
Chill enroute to Anegada buddy boating with us
Chill enroute to Anegada buddy boating with us
Chill approaching the very low lying (Bahamas like) island of Anegada, BVI
Chill approaching the very low lying (Bahamas like) island of Anegada, BVI

On US Thanksgiving day, we buddy boated across to Anegada with Jackie and Dan from Chill. We all went to Neptune’s Treasure for a dinner of Lobster and Swordfish. Of course we had some jungle juice which we enjoyed last time we were there. The following day we hauled our bikes ashore and cycled the island. Spent a few hours lolling around on Loblolly beach, which included some snorkeling and a workout to fight the current to get back to the beach. In total we figured we cycled about 24km (~15 miles).

Loblolly Bay, Anegada with a bit of surf making for some challenging snorkeling on the reef
Loblolly Bay, Anegada with a bit of surf making for some challenging snorkeling on the reef
Charlie discovering the joy of digging in the fine sand at Loblolly Bay, Anegada
Charlie discovering the joy of digging in the fine sand at Loblolly Bay, Anegada
Beach Bar where near where we hung out at Loblolly Bay (photo courtesy of Chill)
Beach Bar where near where we hung out at Loblolly Bay (photo courtesy of Chill)
Chill with their trusty steed in Anegada (photo courtesy of Chill)
Chill with their trusty steed in Anegada (photo courtesy of Chill)
Blue Sky with their trusty folding steeds at Loblolly Bay (photo courtesy of Chill)
Blue Sky with their trusty folding steeds at Loblolly Bay (photo courtesy of Chill)
After a long day exploring Anegada, eagerly anticipating the jungle juice at Neptune's Treasure before having lobster and sword fish for dinner.
After a long day exploring Anegada, eagerly anticipating the jungle juice at Neptune’s Treasure before having lobster and sword fish for dinner.

We finally tried out the new gennaker on our way back to Virgin Gorda and it gave us a nice push in low winds. The parasailor would have been faster, but the gennaker is much easier to handle.

Blue Sky flying her gennaker on the way back from Anegada in light wind (photo courtesy of Chill)
Blue Sky flying her gennaker on the way back from Anegada in light wind (photo courtesy of Chill)

Let’s talk about yoga – Max our instructor was great. He seemed to instinctively know how much to challenge us. Some days we’d have only 5 or 6 participants, while other days we’d have 10 or 12. Most days I’d pick up someone. One day Irene from Destiny told me about the tuna they caught while on passage and asked if I’d eat tuna. I said yes, although I’m mainly vegan, I do give it up for fresh caught fish now and again. When dropping her off after yoga one morning she handed me a chunk of tuna from her freezer. Paul and I had a good few meals from it and it was delicious.

A few times we invited people aboard Blue Sky for sundowners. Chill had us over for a movie night (Despicable Me) and Dawn (Dutch and Elaine) invited us over to learn how to play ‘Oh Hell’ – a really fun card game which Jackie from Chill renamed ‘Oh Crap’.

Between all the fun we managed to clean up the boat, do laundry, provision, swim, paddleboard, kayak, groom Charlie and star gaze. We also took advantage of the free 2 hour water sport rental and tried out a Hobie Cat. Charlie donned his life vest for this and seemed to enjoy the ride as much as we did.

The time arrived to depart Virgin Gorda and head over to Road Town to pick up the boat paint and get ourselves over to Soper’s Hole in time for the latest Salty Dawg dinner event put on by Bamboushay Pottery and Lounge in Road Town. Here the Old Dogs of the BVI meet with the Salty Dawgs and we enjoyed a rare bit of entertainment by Foxy. If you’ve been to Jost Van Dyke island, Foxy has a famous tavern where he entertained his guests for years. He doesn’t entertain much any more so we felt truly privileged to have him entertain us after dinner. The deputy governor also stopped in to greet us on her way home from the office and of course we all received our coffee mugs provided by Bamboushay Pottery made especially for our group. There were many goodbyes as many of the Dawg’s plan to depart the BVI and head down island to various ports after this last event.

Enjoying a rare performance by Foxy at Bamboushay with other Salty Dawgs
Enjoying a rare performance by Foxy at Bamboushay with other Salty Dawgs

On Dec 12th we got Blue Sky hauled out at Soper’s Hole Yacht Services. She’s getting cleaned up and new boat paint. So we’ll be on the hard for a few days. While here we will also be getting our anchor windlass repaired (it broke while bringing up the chain in Little Harbour on Peter Island). Lucky for us Anthony of BVI Yacht Charters has spare parts for it and has offered to sell us some and provide us someone to help us do the repair.

So for the next few days we’ll be getting a little dustier than we like and walking Charlie a lot more. Meanwhile I’ve put up the solar Christmas lights to help us get into the spirit of the season.

Birthday and Pink Flamingo

It’s been awhile since I posted. Paul has been handling the posts lately. Today he finally networked all the computers/tablets to our Wi-Fi extender. This means no more using data on our phone to get into the internet as here in North Sound, Virgin Gorda the free Wi-Fi reaches us at anchor.

On Sunday I had a birthday. Paul was full of surprises. He bought me a nice sun dress, which I wore to Saba Rock Bar in the evening to have a few Caribbean Painkillers (rummy yummy) and some appetizers which we now consider a meal. He also bought me a luggage scale (to weigh the propane tanks .. yes, I worry about running out of propane while in the middle of cooking dinner), a sarong, another dress, a glass Turtle from Green VI (a not for profit glass studio here in the BVI), and the biggest surprise of all .. a bug zapper.  I love the bug zapper. I’ve not got much opportunity to use it yet, but I know when we return to the Chesapeake next summer, there will be plenty of fun. I did finish off a big moth type thing the other night and fed it’s remains to the fishes. I guess I’m a little sadistic when it comes to flies, mosquitoes, and moths.

With the birthday over I’ve since read three books in as many days. Now we are really getting down to relaxing. Not that we don’t do other things, because we do. I do laundry, cook most meals, was floors and windows, exercise myself and Charlie. Paul makes water, takes care of technical issues, overhauls our dinghy motor, repairs things that break, exercise himself and Charlie. All in all our days pass by in a flash. I have no idea how I ever got anything done when I worked full time. Oh yeah, well I wasn’t reading all that much, maybe a book a month, and I wasn’t getting as much exercise, etc. But still, retirement is fun.

The day after my birthday, I spotted a pink flamingo on shore near our boat. Paul pulled out his camera and snapped a few shots. What a joy, as we’d hoped to see flamingos on Anagada when we were there, but didn’t. So this really excited me. Two days later we saw the same flamingo in flight heading south. No pictures of this one as it moved off too fast, but what a beauty. They are so big and bright pink.

Early morning spotted the flamingo in the marsh
Early morning spotted the flamingo in the marsh
Too bad the mangrove tree got in the way.  The bird was very large.
Too bad the mangrove tree got in the way. The bird was very large.

Yesterday, I took the dinghy ashore without Paul for the first time. I managed to start it myself, put in into and out of gear and land it without much issue. It still messes with my head when I steer it, especially when I go from reverse to forward, I found myself heading the wrong way more than once, but I made it to shore and back and the motor still runs like a charm. I didn’t flood it or anything like that.

I still can’t believe I’m retired and living on a boat that happens to be in the Caribbean while everyone back home is dealing with rain and snow and cold. How lucky is that? I do need to remind those who hope to follow a similar path, that it took some footwork and some level of guts to sell off the house and put stuff into storage for an extended period of time. Basically you have to trust that your new home will always be afloat, that you will find yourself in safe harbour during a storm, and that you have the strength to manage when you find yourself in tough situations. There are days when you miss your family and wish you could just pick up what you need at the store for your next meal. But the warmth and relaxation is great. Am I grateful? You bet I am, every minute of every day.