Gwyn Wagschal

CURRY QUINOA

This recipe is so delicious we make it on a weekly basis. It’s good for lunch or dinner and leftovers are good cold. The original recipe called for it to be made with kale, but I prefer the flavour of spinach. Paul adds feta cheese to his portion. What I like about this recipe is while the quinoa is cooking you can do all the chopping. This recipe comes together in under 30 minutes.

Ingredients:
1 (14 oz) can unsweetened coconut milk
1/3 cup water
1 cup quinoa (white is best)
1 tsp garlic, minced (1 clove)
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp turmeric
1/2 TBSP curry powder
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
1/2 TBSP chili powder
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup raisins, chopped
1/4 cup dried cranberries, chopped
3 green onions, sliced finely
3/4 cup cherry or grape tomatoes, quartered
1/2 bag spinach leaves, chopped
feta cheese (optional)

Directions:
-In a large pot warm coconut milk over medium heat, stir in ground ginger, turmeric, curry powder, cardamom, garlic, chili powder, salt and pepper. Stir for 1-2 minutes until spices are well blended into the milk.
-Add water and quinoa, bring to a boil, then cover and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook for 15 minutes, remove from heat and let rest for 5 more minutes.
-While quinoa is cooking quarter the tomatoes, chop the spinach, green onions, raisins and cranberries.
-Fluff the quinoa and add the tomatoes, spinach, green onions, raisins and cranberries and mix well. Serve immediately (top with feta cheese if you like).

Guadeloupe

The problem with premade plans is they won’t always turn out perfectly as you’ll see explained in this blog.

We had everything in order for our friends, Laurie and Joe, to arrive into Antigua on February 21st. We took a mooring in Jolly Harbour and asked them to taxi to the marina where we’d meet them, then sail them to Guadeloupe where they would fly out of. We saw their plane go over and went ashore just in time to meet them at the dinghy dock. They were hungry and thirsty, so we went into the pub by the poolside for a round of drinks while they enjoyed a few appetizers. I had made chili on board which we only needed to heat, so no full meal was necessary.

Joe and Laurie’s flight arrival as it passed overhead in Antigua

The trip before we got to the squalls. Sorry too busy during the squall for more pics.

The following morning Paul and Joe went ashore to clear everyone out. We departed Antigua for Guadeloupe at 10am. While protected by the island of Antigua the winds and sea were decent, but as soon as we got out from the lee of the island the sea state became quite unstable. The winds were over 25 knots so we were already single reefed, but the horizon had some squall clouds on it so we double reefed. We ended up hitting the tail end of 3 squalls. Some with gusts of up to 45 knots. Now this is not fun for seasoned sailors like us, so you can only imagine how it can incapacitate our guests. They were flat out on their backs for most of the trip.

We arrived in Deshaies, Guadeloupe at 4:30 in the afternoon. Thankfully the anchorage is well protected and our friends recovered from the passage fairly quickly. The following day we all ventured ashore and walked the mile or so up hill to visit the botanical gardens. No dogs were allowed so Paul sat outside with Charlie while the rest of us went through and enjoyed the plants and birds. First stop once inside is the feeding of the koi, and believe me when I say they are well fed. They are huge and there are hundreds of them in the ponds throughout the gardens.

This is just a few of the hundreds of Koi – feed me, please

Laurie and Joe enjoying the sights

Orchid – for real – not photo-shopped – amazing

Some amazing vines that became roots behind Gwyn and Laurie

The ever present goats

Now that is a really different tree trunk

Deshaies harbor from the botanical garden

I enjoyed the bright colorful birds they had in a large outdoor arbor. Most of them were busy eating the fresh grapefruit slices that were hung for them. A few were hopeful that we had food, but the food dispenser was empty so we had nothing to offer. I also enjoyed the plantings and it was particularly interesting to see the orchids growing in their natural habitat.

Colorful birds aplenty

Love the affection expressed

Hangin’ with the birds

Got his eye on us

Just push a half of a grapefruit onto a nail – voila bird food

Flamingos look surreal

Sleepy time, and its a struggle to do that in Yoga for us mere humans (especially on a boat)

We were all tired after trekking through the gardens. Paul and I started walking downhill with the dog, while Laurie and Joe organized a ride back to town on the free shuttle. Laurie managed to communicate to the driver to pick us up along the way.

We left Deshaies the following morning for Les Saintes (a small group of islands 37.1 miles from Deshaies). This sail was slightly better than our previous crossing, but the seas were still rough and the winds still high so we were double reefed again. Our guests faired better on this trip having taken some Gravol as we departed.

The required morning shower our first morning in Deshaies, Guadeloupe

Deshaies harbor on Guadeloupe as we were leaving

The French always have a better way – fishing boat, so says the AIS – outclasses the “normal” fishing boat

On the way to Les Saintes, this Caribbean 600 racer came flying by us like we were drifting. Didn’t realize we were on the race course

We anchored and I took Charlie aboard in the kayak to a small beach littered with sea glass (score). We spent one night at anchor and moved onto a mooring the following morning as soon as one freed up. We all ventured into town where we found a place that sold fresh baguettes. We also located some free WiFi in a new little creperie not far from the dinghy dock. We enjoyed crepes and galettes here a few times over the course of our visit.

A partial view of Terre de Haut from Fort Napolean

Les Saintes Pain de Sucre (sugar loaf) behind which we hid from the wind with Terre de Bas in the background

Bourg des Saintes on Terre de Haut with Fort Napolean on the hill right center and Guadeloupe in the background

Looking a bit more to the west is Fort Josephine on Ilet a Cabrit on the right and Pain de Sucre with Terre de Bas in the background on the left

A closeup look of Fort Josephine, we didn’t climb that one this trip. Spot Blue Sky just to the left of center?

A closer look at the town and to the right a house built like a ship’s prow. Colorful and fun with good food

The streets are busy with people from ferries that come over from the island of Guadeloupe several times a day loaded with tourists. There are many little shops and restaurants here and there are multiple grocery stores within walking distance. Scooters are the main mode of transport here and they are weaving around between those who are on foot throughout the village.

Les Saintes Anse du Bourg – beautiful except for the constant rain showers and wind. Not normal weather

A walk across the island to the windward side brought some nice surf

Interesting looking airport nestled between two hills and a mountain at one end. Behind me is the ocean

Loved the use of color in the homes

Charlie tentatively meets two other dogs who were just dying to make a new friend.

Maybe if I pick Charlie up, the other dogs will stay home. Nope, followed us all the way into town.

Laurie and Joe as we sample some restaurant food on the sea’s edge

Paul and Gwyn at the restaurant in Bourg des Saintes

Our days were spent wandering the town, enjoying galletes and baguettes. We did the hike up the hill to visit Fort Napoleon. This time Charlie and I sat outside while Paul did the tour with Laurie and Joe. Our evenings were spent playing Farkle or scrabble after a short swim.

The mandatory football field in Terre de Haut

Always the goats in the bush on the way up to Fort Napolean

Taking a break just before the summit on our climb to Fort Napolean (Guadeloupe in the background)

First you go down into the moat then scale the walls and that only gets you to the inner fort – I’d call it a losing proposition

Fort Napolean inner fort seen from the fort walls which also had a moat on the outside. Guess they didn’t like visitors

Marigot Bay on the other side of Fort Napolean. Bit of a hike straight up

Iguana standing guard inside the fort – about 4 feet long

Before we knew it the week with our guests was over and it was time for them to leave. They opted to take the fast ferry over to Trois Riviere, Guadeloupe rather than do another passage in the rough seas. Good choice I’d say. So we bid them goodbye and we dropped the mooring and moved to an anchorage called Pan de Sucre. Here there was a small beach and some snorkeling. The winds continued and boats were coming and going. Each evening we were kept busy watching that no one fouled our anchor while setting theirs. Boats often drag in this bay so it was nerve racking.

Another marvel of French innovative marine engineering, Laurie and Joe said the rides was quite smooth despite the heavy weather on the way to Trois Riviere

Thanks for wearing the bright blue shirt, Joe! Bye for now L & J

Pain de Sucre protecting us from the high winds in Les Saintes

Uncomfortably close anchoring in Pain de Sucre but he didn’t see it that way

The good news (for us) is the wind shifted and he dragged into another cat while the captain slept in the morning.

They are just getting ready for the marriage vows (we think). Gotta like the wedding attire. Although he had on no shirt, he sported a bow tie and long pants.

Day after the wedding managing the kids – still in bow tie

I’d finally had enough and really wanted to get somewhere with more protection from the winds that never seemed to let up. We chose to sail back over to Guadeloupe on March 3rd. While on route we were hailed by Ullyses in French. Paul responded in French, much to my surprise, and eventually both parties converted to English. They were asking for us to take some photos of their boat while under sail. We were happy to comply.

Our plan was to sail to the Jacques Cousteau marine park, but we ended up stopping in a bay just a few miles south of there. It was well protected from the winds so we actually had some time to kayak Charlie ashore and to deliver the photos to Ulysse who’d also anchored here behind us. They invited us for wine that evening and returned our USB key with a few photos of us. They had sailed recently sailed across the Atlantic and still had their crew with them. Nice people and we did our best to communicate. Thankfully they all spoke better English than we spoke in French.

Ulysee wing on wing in the rough water of Canal des Saintes between Les Saintes and Guadeloupe

Ulysee in calmer water in the lee of Guadeloupe

That night the winds were really high and we dragged. Usually it’s simple to haul the anchor and reset, but to my surprise we had snagged a tarp full of muck. It took me about 10 minutes to get it off the anchor while Paul kept the boat pointing into the wind. In the end we chose a place behind all the other boats to reset in case we dragged again. Thank goodness for our anchor alarm. We weren’t the only ones who dragged that night. We certainly didn’t get much sleep here.

With winds still high sustained to 38 knots and gusting to 50 knots, we passed by the Jacques Cousteau marine park and made our way back to Deshaies. Here we cleared out on March 5th and sailed back to Antigua. No squalls, but we were double reefed all the way back and still made an average of 8 knots. We’d have another week or so of these higher winds to endure before they finally abated. You just can’t predict the weather.

ROTINI WITH ARTICHOKES, WALNUTS & OLIVES

The flavours in this dish burst in your mouth. I like to make this dish ahead and serve cold, but it is just as delicious hot. To make this gluten free, use any gluten free pasta. Our friends enjoyed this dish with us on a recent visit to Blue Sky while in Guadeloupe. Here’s the recipe Laurie. Enjoy and thanks for bringing the Red Lentil Rotini, it was delicious in this dish.

Ingredients:
12 oz. Rotini or other bite sized pasta
5 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup chopped walnuts
1 (14 oz.) can artichoke hearts, drained, rinsed and chopped
¼ cup pitted Kalamata olives, chopped
¼ or less cup oil-packed sundried tomatoes, chopped
¼ cup quartered grape tomatoes
½ tsp salt
½ tsp red pepper flakes
¼ tsp ground black pepper
3 tablespoons dry white wine
½ cup vegetable broth
2 TBSP minced fresh parsley or basil

Directions:
-Cook pasta according to package directions, approximately 10 minutes, drain and rinse
-Heat oil in skillet over medium heat, add garlic & red pepper flakes. Cook until fragrant, approx. 1 minute
-Stir in walnuts, artichokes, olives, tomatoes, salt and white wine.
-Add broth and simmer to blend flavors, approx. 2 minutes.
-Add the cooked pasta to sauce and mix well. Adjust seasonings and add parsley/basil and let cook another few minutes to allow flavors to blend into the pasta.
-Serve immediately or store in an airtight container and refrigerate until ready to serve cold.

Antigua

We arrived in Antigua at 0700 on January 30th after an easy close reaching night sail. Having been here before we were much more relaxed arriving at Jolly Harbor and clearing in. Dr Edwards remembered Charlie and was happy to welcome him back to the island. We spent only one night at Jolly Harbor before heading over to Pigeon Beach at Falmouth Harbour for a few days.

Anchored next to us at Pigeon Beach were fellow Salty Dawgs from last year, ‘Want To’(Peggy, John). We had them over to Blue Sky to watch the sunset one evening and heard all about their sailing back up island from Grenada where they left their boat during the last hurricane season. Nice couple who shared some travel information collected while in Guadaloupe after we mentioned this was our next stop.

Falmouth is a place where all the mega Sailing Yachts gather for various regattas including the Caribbean 600. We enjoy Pigeon Beach, but it can be crowded on weekends (P – and a bit rolly, especially for monohulls) and we tired of the noise quickly so we stayed only 2 nights and headed around Antigua to the east to Nonsuch Bay. There are free mooring balls at Nonsuch and lucky for us we got the one nearest the beach of Green Island. Charlie loves that beach and it made it easy to SUP or kayak him ashore a few times each day.

Beautiful yacht among a flotilla of wet bottom sailors at Falmouth, Antigua

And a few more:

Beautiful classic lines

A more modern “classic”. The height of the mast is scary.

Cruise ship with classic lines

Looking out to the point in Falmouth with a typical morning rainbow

We spent a full 10 days in Nonsuch Bay simply enjoying the beauty of the place with its barrier reef (which we snorkeled – beautiful coral). You look east across the reef and realize there is only the Atlantic Ocean between you and Africa (P – Mauritania!), amazing. It’s a kite-surfers paradise as the bay is huge and well protected by the reef, but the wind with nothing to stop it, so it always seems to be perfect conditions for that sport. P – This year we tried a hike on Green Island. Ended up being very prickly and challenging so it was not a long hike.

Tough going hiking Green Island – too many prickly things

It is a bit easier bushwhacking when you are short – if it wasn’t for those darn burrs in the paws

Finally, back at the beach

Happiness is chasing a ball in the ocean after

Friends on Rum Runner, Kalunamoo, and Judith Arlene showed up a few days into our time here. We joined them and went to Harmony Hall and had drinks on a Sunday afternoon, while the duo Steel and Keys played steel drum music. Judy and Phil on Rum Runner had us all over for drinks and a game of Farkel, a dice game that is super simple yet highly competitive. Maureen won, but she was also the score keeper so we teased her that she cheated (she totally didn’t, her skill and experience won out).

The following evening we had a musical Jam session with Rum Runner (Judy, Phil), Kalunamoo (Maureen, Bill), Judith Arlene (Judy, Ed) on board Blue Sky. We managed to have 2 guitars, two harmonicas (P – Phil who did Dylan proud), and a roll up keyboard (P – which Bill made sound better than I’ve ever heard). The girls mainly sang or acted as groupies while the guys created the music. I must thank Judy on Judith Arlene for organizing everyone for such a fun and entertaining evening (P – and spouse Ed for bringing along excellent guitar accompaniment and tabs for some fun music. He has motivated P to get back to playing a bit).

Charlie had his first dog guest on board, Nigel of Judith Arlene braved it and came aboard a few times. Charlie was mostly calm about it and Nigel is so laid back he didn’t seem bothered at all by Charlie’s few snarls. We’re working on him when we can to be around other dogs to not be so afraid of them. He’s such a people dog. We broke them in by taking them ashore in the same dinghy (Nigel’s).

The only thing we hadn’t done was have a game of Mexican Train (dominoes), so we arranged to do so again on Blue Sky since we have the largest table. We had 10 on board that night as we were joined by Folie a Deux (Ann, John). Another fun evening.

We spent a few evenings with Ann and John after the other Dawgs left (P – and enjoyed a snorkel on Bird Island reef with them – good coral, okay fish). This is how 10 days can pass in one place and you feel like you’ve been so busy. I had to get creative with my appetizers as I was running low of fresh produce. It’s standard to take an appetizer and your own drinks along to these events. We really didn’t need dinner most nights with the variety of appetizers that were available each night.

Full moon peeking out of the cloud after sunset at Nonsuch Bay

So we are now in Jolly Harbor again after a lovely sail from Nonsuch Bay on February 14th. When we arrived our aft stanchion broke at the base where the bolt had rusted and snapped. After taking it apart we discovered we need to go to the welding shop to get the old bolt remains removed and a new bolt welded on (thanks to Dr. Carl in Jolly Harbor). Meanwhile, we are busy re-provisioning and planning for our next destination, Guadeloupe (P – not to mention trying to brush up on a little French).

Sunrise over Green Island in Nonsuch Bay, Antigua

Sint Maarten

The wind is usually on the nose when going from BVI to St Maarten, so while we were waiting for a wind free night we sailed over to North Sound on Virgin Gorda and anchored off the beach of Prickly Pear island. Charlie enjoyed his usual romps on the beach and we enjoyed swimming off the boat. We joined friends Dan and Jackie onboard ‘Chill’ one evening to watch the movie 27 Dresses and made our usual visit to Saba Rock for happy hour. The perfect weather window was only a few days away.

We scheduled Charlie in to the vet for his export papers on January 19th. I took him in the taxi while Paul got the propane tank filled and picked up a few provisions. We all went over to clear customs and then we went for lunch at a restaurant to celebrate my birthday, since we’d be sailing overnight.

We headed out about 1430h to begin our motor to the Dutch side of the island of St Maarten. The seas were perfectly calm as we watched the islands of BVI slowly disappear behind us as night fell. It was a simple motor and no fussing with sails. What I found most fascinating about the trip was the traffic. Yes, traffic – boats going in both directions. We must have seen at least 30 other boats pass us through the night, not to mention the ones that filed in behind us upon arrival. We anchored on the Dutch side of the island by 0700h. Paul went ashore to clear us in. He mentioned the customs and immigration officers on this island to be the nicest he’s met so far.

Rugged Round Rock

A reminder that the sea is unforgiving as we head out Round Rock passage

Unbelievably flat and magical ocean as we head to St Maarten

Sunrise as we arrive in St Maarten

Once we were cleared in we enjoyed mimosas to celebrate our arrival to a new island and my birthday. P gave me a nice surprise gift of the first 4 seasons of Downton Abbey (at the time of this writing we are starting Season 3).

In St Maarten we ran into fellow Salty Dawg boats: Kalani, Kalunamoo , Judith Arlene and Chasseur. After our first explore of the island and a walk for Charlie, we joined everyone at Lagoonies in the lagoon for happy hour. It was fun to reminisce and hear everyone’s adventures so far.

Salty Dawgs enjoying happy hour at Lagoonies in the St Maarten lagoon

Charlie keeping an eye on the snorkelers at the reef at Simpson Bay

Sunset from Simpson Bay, St Maarten

We recovered our sleep over the next few days, discovered a few good pastry places, and spent lots of money at the Budget Marine (the biggest in the Caribbean). Since we were anchored in Simpson bay, we had a good snorkel over to the reef (swimming distance) discovering only so-so coral and fish – but surprise, an old auto graveyard with pieces scattered about. Curious about what boat sunk there and when.

We also had a few more events at Lagoonies with our friends while we waited for a Fed Ex package to arrive. Oddly enough the package ended up being sent via UPS so the Fed Ex office wouldn’t accept it. Lucky for us we happened to be having a pastry at the café next to the Fed Ex office when the UPS guy called. So P went out to the street and was able to get the package directly from the UPS driver.

We were happy to finally get the package so we could plan to continue down island on the BVI export permit for Charlie before it expired. We left Sint Maarten on January 29th and sailed directly to Antigua.