Birthday and Pink Flamingo

It’s been awhile since I posted. Paul has been handling the posts lately. Today he finally networked all the computers/tablets to our Wi-Fi extender. This means no more using data on our phone to get into the internet as here in North Sound, Virgin Gorda the free Wi-Fi reaches us at anchor.

On Sunday I had a birthday. Paul was full of surprises. He bought me a nice sun dress, which I wore to Saba Rock Bar in the evening to have a few Caribbean Painkillers (rummy yummy) and some appetizers which we now consider a meal. He also bought me a luggage scale (to weigh the propane tanks .. yes, I worry about running out of propane while in the middle of cooking dinner), a sarong, another dress, a glass Turtle from Green VI (a not for profit glass studio here in the BVI), and the biggest surprise of all .. a bug zapper.  I love the bug zapper. I’ve not got much opportunity to use it yet, but I know when we return to the Chesapeake next summer, there will be plenty of fun. I did finish off a big moth type thing the other night and fed it’s remains to the fishes. I guess I’m a little sadistic when it comes to flies, mosquitoes, and moths.

With the birthday over I’ve since read three books in as many days. Now we are really getting down to relaxing. Not that we don’t do other things, because we do. I do laundry, cook most meals, was floors and windows, exercise myself and Charlie. Paul makes water, takes care of technical issues, overhauls our dinghy motor, repairs things that break, exercise himself and Charlie. All in all our days pass by in a flash. I have no idea how I ever got anything done when I worked full time. Oh yeah, well I wasn’t reading all that much, maybe a book a month, and I wasn’t getting as much exercise, etc. But still, retirement is fun.

The day after my birthday, I spotted a pink flamingo on shore near our boat. Paul pulled out his camera and snapped a few shots. What a joy, as we’d hoped to see flamingos on Anagada when we were there, but didn’t. So this really excited me. Two days later we saw the same flamingo in flight heading south. No pictures of this one as it moved off too fast, but what a beauty. They are so big and bright pink.

Early morning spotted the flamingo in the marsh
Early morning spotted the flamingo in the marsh
Too bad the mangrove tree got in the way.  The bird was very large.
Too bad the mangrove tree got in the way. The bird was very large.

Yesterday, I took the dinghy ashore without Paul for the first time. I managed to start it myself, put in into and out of gear and land it without much issue. It still messes with my head when I steer it, especially when I go from reverse to forward, I found myself heading the wrong way more than once, but I made it to shore and back and the motor still runs like a charm. I didn’t flood it or anything like that.

I still can’t believe I’m retired and living on a boat that happens to be in the Caribbean while everyone back home is dealing with rain and snow and cold. How lucky is that? I do need to remind those who hope to follow a similar path, that it took some footwork and some level of guts to sell off the house and put stuff into storage for an extended period of time. Basically you have to trust that your new home will always be afloat, that you will find yourself in safe harbour during a storm, and that you have the strength to manage when you find yourself in tough situations. There are days when you miss your family and wish you could just pick up what you need at the store for your next meal. But the warmth and relaxation is great. Am I grateful? You bet I am, every minute of every day.

It is easy to adopt new home environments

We finally had to tear ourselves away from Cane Garden Bay. The fish had taken up permanent residence under the boat, each with their assigned duties. The ones at the stern were silver blue about 3 inches long and frenetic. We had 6 black ones that hung out around the chain, presumably monitoring any tendency to drag. Then we had the millions of little ones that hung out in the shadow and the big boss fish in the center of the boat. Sad to break up the newly developed ecosystem but we were running low on groceries so off to West End (Soper’s Hole) for a quick provisioning stop.

Cane Garden Bay had many light showers with resulting rainbows
Cane Garden Bay had many light showers with resulting rainbows

Cane Garden continued producing beautiful sunsets
Cane Garden continued producing beautiful sunsets

After provisioning we enjoyed a close hauled sail from there back to Norman Island for a peaceful night at the Bight. However, we don’t like all the mooring balls so the next day we went around the corner to Benure’s Bay. We loved it there.

Blue Sky in Benure's Bay looking north - a favorite anchorage
Blue Sky in Benure’s Bay looking north – a favorite anchorage

Just a few other boats at anchor and tremendous snorkeling in clear water – not to mention the wind protection was even better than the Bight. One day we set off on a hike, missed the trail, and in true bushwhacker style G, Charlie, and I clawed our way up a steep 120 meter hill. We knew a jeep trail ran along the ridge so we just had to keep going up. The jeep trail was much easier walking so we hiked across the island back to the Bight with some gorgeous sights along the way.

The foliage was a little dense on the way to the jeep trail.  Not obvious in photo but incline angle was about 30 degrees.
The foliage was a little dense on the way to the jeep trail. Not obvious in photo but incline angle was about 30 degrees.

Money Bay looking east on the south side of Norman Island - beautiful
Money Bay looking east on the south side of Norman Island – beautiful

Norman island looking southwest from the top of the ridge
Norman island looking southwest from the top of the ridge

The Bight on Norman seen from the top of the island on our hike
The Bight on Norman seen from the top of the island on our hike

After 3 days, we were getting comfortable again but lacked provisions so we had a quick beam reach sail over to Road Town on Tortola but not before stopping at the Indians for some morning snorkeling. Finally was brave enough to take my camera swimming. It was beautiful but we definitely preferred Benure’s and the caves for clarity and variety of fish.

The Indians up close where we snorkeled
The Indians up close where we snorkeled
Water was a bit stirred up but here is one fellow who kept following me.
Water was a bit stirred up but here is one fellow who kept following me.
A couple other fish keeping watch.
A couple other fish keeping watch.

Then it was on to Road Town and a heavy duty stock up grocery shopping plus propane and some fix-it items. It was just a lot of grunt work collecting all we needed and haul it to the dinghy and back to the boat. Transferring it onto Blue Sky in two foot steep chop with the occasional ferry wake much bigger proved to be a tremendous workout. Happy to say everything and everyone made it to the boat with with no one/thing going for a swim.

The next morning on the 18th was a bit more resupplying followed by a great sail back to North Sound on Virgin Gorda. The wind gods nicely moved the east wind to the southeast about 1/2 hour into the almost 4 hour trip which meant we could sail direct, albeit close hauled. We are now happily anchored and will be celebrating G’s birthday today. More on that later.

Classic sailboat enjoying the breeze
Classic sailboat enjoying the breeze

Stellar Stella

Cane Garden Bay is remaining delightful with north swell surf crashing in on our port side, a reef with numerous fish on starboard, beach and town forward with a beautiful view of the sunset aft with St Thomas a way off. It is being easy to get comfortable here and dig into books, small repairs, puzzles and a myriad other things.

Surf rolling in from the North
Surf rolling in from the North

Actually that surf looks kinda small. However, up close the waves were 6-7 feet at times and this guy made the most of it:
IMG_3871

IMG_3870

IMG_3872-001

We had a wonderful encounter with the folks at GreenVI Glass Studio where they turn glass recycled from the bars into some beautiful glassware. It is nonprofit and the artisans are local and apprenticed, learning a creative trade. Soon they will be converting to using the discarded cooking oil from the bars to fire the kilns taking a huge step toward carbon neutral. We were treated to a demonstration of making a starfish similar to the one we bought which is being used as a tea bag or spoon holder on the boat. GreenVI, a must see, and the people were friendly and fun. Find them on GreenVI facebook or their short GreenVI mission statement here.

GreenVI starfish - now our tea bag/spoon holder
GreenVI starfish – now our tea bag/spoon holder

Having run often with Charlie at the beach, we decided it was time to sample one of the bars – Quito’s was chosen and what a delightful choice. Stella, our server, was cheery, efficient, and very down to earth. She really made our evening! Of course a few painkillers didn’t hurt. But the Mahi Mahi was the surprise – cooked perfectly with a fresh flavor that beats any other restaurant we have eaten at in the BVI. And it was a happy hour appetizer at only $5. Talk about value! We retired early to the boat to listen to the live music coming across the water. We are about a quarter of a mile from the beach – just right for privacy and peace, but close enough to sit at night on the foredeck, listen to the live music and watch the stars – that is until the odd shower shows up.
Quito's with the red roof slightly left of center
Quito’s with the red roof slightly left of center

Bottom line is we have come to enjoy the earthiness feel to Cane Garden (not just a resort mentality) and the people we have met. GreenVI – bravo, keep it happening. Stella (previously from Burbank), we wish you all the happiness and good fortune as you choose to follow your dreams!
Sunset view with St Thomas low in the background
Sunset view with St Thomas low in the background

Cruise ship ghosting by under sail
Cruise ship ghosting by under sail

Cane Garden Bay

Jan 7 we departed Marina Cay and had a pleasant sail to Cane Garden Bay. This bay has one of the prettiest beaches on Tortola. There are mooring balls, but also plenty of room to anchor behind them, which we did. We’ll happily save our money and anchor anyday. I personally find it much more pleasant at anchor, especially in light winds (mooring balls tend to bang on the hull in light winds). We launched the dinghy as soon as the anchor was set and headed to town. Fresh veggies were my target. Plus Charlie was desperate for a good walk. We located the small grocery store and followed that with a romp on the beach for Charlie. He never tires of chasing his ball. He now welcomes us to throw it in the water so he can swim. His first encounter with small surf (big to him) was to just head straight into it after the ball. The first time a wave broke in his face, he turned around and came back to the beach with a look saying “why did you do that to me?”. He is now starting to figure out that he can back away from curling water or jump over it then swim to get his ball. Fascinating watching him learn and developing strategies to cope with the curl and undertow. So today he learned to jump the surf, and he experienced it pull him out and bring him in. Check out the video:

Today, Jan 8, we paddled ashore for more beach time. We followed that with a swim off the boat. While catching up the blog, P sighted a dolphin off our bow which lazily swam to and fro teasing us for 10 minutes. We both got pictures and a good video. Our days are becoming more relaxed and rich with the pleasure of being here in paradise.

Charlie spots the Dolphin heading toward us
Charlie spots the Dolphin heading toward us
Taking a closer look at us
Taking a closer look at us
Dolphin swimming across our bow at Cane Garden Bay
Dolphin swimming across our bow at Cane Garden Bay

Dolphin BVI 1

Marina Cay

Jan 6/14 We motored from Lee Bay around the bend to Marina Cay. This is a little cay that has a store, fuel dock and restaurant. There may be a resort here, but we did not get far when we went ashore to explore. Apparently, there are no dogs allowed on this island. So we did not have much of a walk here. We made a pact when we started this sailing adventure, that if Charlie wasn’t welcome then we would not visit (or spend money) on those islands. So after a night on a mooring ball we departed the next day. We hate spending money on mooring balls, but this place has little opportunity to put down an anchor. We did see one gutsy boat come in late in the evening, and drop anchor right in front of all the mooring balls next to the reef. We aren’t that gutsy yet. Maybe one day.

Small but nice beach overlooking the reef
Small but nice beach overlooking the reef

Blue Sky at Marina Cay
Blue Sky at Marina Cay