Month: January 2014

We finally had to tear ourselves away from Cane Garden Bay. The fish had taken up permanent residence under the boat, each with their assigned duties. The ones at the stern were silver blue about 3 inches long and frenetic. We had 6 black ones that hung out around the chain, presumably monitoring any tendency to drag. Then we had the millions of little ones that hung out in the shadow and the big boss fish in the center of the boat. Sad to break up the newly developed ecosystem but we were running low on groceries so off to West End (Soper’s Hole) for a quick provisioning stop.

After provisioning we enjoyed a close hauled sail from there back to Norman Island for a peaceful night at the Bight. However, we don’t like all the mooring balls so the next day we went around the corner to Benure’s Bay. We loved it there.

Just a few other boats at anchor and tremendous snorkeling in clear water – not to mention the wind protection was even better than the Bight. One day we set off on a hike, missed the trail, and in true bushwhacker style G, Charlie, and I clawed our way up a steep 120 meter hill. We knew a jeep trail ran along the ridge so we just had to keep going up. The jeep trail was much easier walking so we hiked across the island back to the Bight with some gorgeous sights along the way.

After 3 days, we were getting comfortable again but lacked provisions so we had a quick beam reach sail over to Road Town on Tortola but not before stopping at the Indians for some morning snorkeling. Finally was brave enough to take my camera swimming. It was beautiful but we definitely preferred Benure’s and the caves for clarity and variety of fish.

Then it was on to Road Town and a heavy duty stock up grocery shopping plus propane and some fix-it items. It was just a lot of grunt work collecting all we needed and haul it to the dinghy and back to the boat. Transferring it onto Blue Sky in two foot steep chop with the occasional ferry wake much bigger proved to be a tremendous workout. Happy to say everything and everyone made it to the boat with with no one/thing going for a swim.

The next morning on the 18th was a bit more resupplying followed by a great sail back to North Sound on Virgin Gorda. The wind gods nicely moved the east wind to the southeast about 1/2 hour into the almost 4 hour trip which meant we could sail direct, albeit close hauled. We are now happily anchored and will be celebrating G’s birthday today. More on that later.

Cane Garden Bay is remaining delightful with north swell surf crashing in on our port side, a reef with numerous fish on starboard, beach and town forward with a beautiful view of the sunset aft with St Thomas a way off. It is being easy to get comfortable here and dig into books, small repairs, puzzles and a myriad other things.

Actually that surf looks kinda small. However, up close the waves were 6-7 feet at times and this guy made the most of it:

We had a wonderful encounter with the folks at GreenVI Glass Studio where they turn glass recycled from the bars into some beautiful glassware. It is nonprofit and the artisans are local and apprenticed, learning a creative trade. Soon they will be converting to using the discarded cooking oil from the bars to fire the kilns taking a huge step toward carbon neutral. We were treated to a demonstration of making a starfish similar to the one we bought which is being used as a tea bag or spoon holder on the boat. GreenVI, a must see, and the people were friendly and fun. Find them on GreenVI facebook or their short GreenVI mission statement here.

Having run often with Charlie at the beach, we decided it was time to sample one of the bars – Quito’s was chosen and what a delightful choice. Stella, our server, was cheery, efficient, and very down to earth. She really made our evening! Of course a few painkillers didn’t hurt. But the Mahi Mahi was the surprise – cooked perfectly with a fresh flavor that beats any other restaurant we have eaten at in the BVI. And it was a happy hour appetizer at only $5. Talk about value! We retired early to the boat to listen to the live music coming across the water. We are about a quarter of a mile from the beach – just right for privacy and peace, but close enough to sit at night on the foredeck, listen to the live music and watch the stars – that is until the odd shower shows up.

Bottom line is we have come to enjoy the earthiness feel to Cane Garden (not just a resort mentality) and the people we have met. GreenVI – bravo, keep it happening. Stella (previously from Burbank), we wish you all the happiness and good fortune as you choose to follow your dreams!

Jan 7 we departed Marina Cay and had a pleasant sail to Cane Garden Bay. This bay has one of the prettiest beaches on Tortola. There are mooring balls, but also plenty of room to anchor behind them, which we did. We’ll happily save our money and anchor anyday. I personally find it much more pleasant at anchor, especially in light winds (mooring balls tend to bang on the hull in light winds). We launched the dinghy as soon as the anchor was set and headed to town. Fresh veggies were my target. Plus Charlie was desperate for a good walk. We located the small grocery store and followed that with a romp on the beach for Charlie. He never tires of chasing his ball. He now welcomes us to throw it in the water so he can swim. His first encounter with small surf (big to him) was to just head straight into it after the ball. The first time a wave broke in his face, he turned around and came back to the beach with a look saying “why did you do that to me?”. He is now starting to figure out that he can back away from curling water or jump over it then swim to get his ball. Fascinating watching him learn and developing strategies to cope with the curl and undertow. So today he learned to jump the surf, and he experienced it pull him out and bring him in. Check out the video:

Today, Jan 8, we paddled ashore for more beach time. We followed that with a swim off the boat. While catching up the blog, P sighted a dolphin off our bow which lazily swam to and fro teasing us for 10 minutes. We both got pictures and a good video. Our days are becoming more relaxed and rich with the pleasure of being here in paradise.

Jan 6/14 We motored from Lee Bay around the bend to Marina Cay. This is a little cay that has a store, fuel dock and restaurant. There may be a resort here, but we did not get far when we went ashore to explore. Apparently, there are no dogs allowed on this island. So we did not have much of a walk here. We made a pact when we started this sailing adventure, that if Charlie wasn’t welcome then we would not visit (or spend money) on those islands. So after a night on a mooring ball we departed the next day. We hate spending money on mooring balls, but this place has little opportunity to put down an anchor. We did see one gutsy boat come in late in the evening, and drop anchor right in front of all the mooring balls next to the reef. We aren’t that gutsy yet. Maybe one day.