March 16th I woke with the instinct that I should recheck our documents. We’ve been here nearly a month and I’d looked at our passports which gave us until May in Antigua/Barbuda. Good thing I looked again, as our cruising permit expires on March 17th. So we needed to get to either English Harbor or Jolly Harbor to get the permit extended. We opted to go around to Jolly Harbor where there is a large Emporium grocery store to get some of the staples we’re running low on. The extension was simple at a cost of $25EC. We also arranged to have our propane tank refilled (you need to drop it off and pick it up the next day). So we spent a few days in Jolly Harbor enjoying the luxury of being able to get groceries with a dinghy ride and walk.
Once we retrieved our propane tank we took a short 1 hour sail around the island to Deep Bay. We’d visited this bay with Laurie and Joe and enjoyed the place. Great beach, nice hike to Fort Barrington, calm enough water for paddle boarding, and snorkeling the sunken ship the Andes if we so desired. Charlie was especially happy to swim, as this beach does not have large surf.
Charlie loving the Deep Bay beachGwyn off for a kayak tour with CharlieGreat sunset view of NevisIs that the start of a green flash?
After our friends left, we re-situated ourselves near Green Island in Nonesuch Bay, Antigua. Watching the Kite-surfers, Paul had this wanton look on his face. Aha, a birthday gift idea. So I encouraged him to sign up for lessons as a gift from me for his upcoming birthday. He started with two lessons on March 5th in the hopes that he would be able to ride by his day on the 9th. On March 6th he was successful in riding in one direction. So additional lessons would be arranged, but not before provisioning.
Many moments like thisFollowed shortly by thisUntil finally you outrun the instructor – awesome! Great birthday
Back to Falmouth for provisions, we settled again near Pigeon Beach. Charlie was happy to return to this beach with all the people to watch. Our return sail to Falmouth Harbour was fast with huge swells. Enjoyable as always. The next day we headed back to Bailey’s for fresh produce (best place to find local produce on Antigua). With fresh basil in hand, I made Laurie’s spaghetti sauce (yummy). Email me if you want the super simple recipe.
West coast of Antigua is a bit ruggedFinally English Harbor – means Falmouth is just ahead
We decided to stay in Falmouth on March 9th so we could eat at a restaurant for P’s birthday. Along with the kite surfing lessons, there were a few small gifts (a dolphin opener from Cane Garden Bay, a new sun hat, and 3 seasons of Fringe for entertainment). We went to Life on the Corner restaurant for dinner. The vegetarian spring rolls are a must have. P ordered a classic pot pie and mash potatoes. I went with the Caesar salad (not recommended). Drinks were extremely reasonable during happy hour at $2 each. We enjoyed watching a political party parade with a lot of hoopla and hurrah. Very fun.
Birthday started great with a beautiful sunrise – PFollowed by a splendid rare clear view of Montserrat.And a couple showing how to double up on a paddle board
After presents and before dinner we managed to spot dolphins in the harbor (no pics – too slow) and then on a long snorkel over to the reef we found another ray, and this time I had camera in hand. (P).
Long snorkel = from here to the white water breaking over the reef just visible in front of the sailboat on the left.
All in all a super birthday!!! Thanks,Gwyn (P)
We returned to Nonesuch Bay/Green Island on the 10th. Another pleasant sailing day. Winds were low so kite surfing lessons would restart on March 13th. Meanwhile we swam, SUP’d, kayaked, snorkeled and trimmed Charlie.
It was a tough trip going back to Nonesuch BayFinally back at Green Island in Nonesuch
March 15th P got up going both ways kite-surfing. I couldn’t get new pics as he was too far away from the boat. I was so excited for him, but realized when he returned that this would be the end of kite-surfing for a while. He managed to pull a muscle or tendon under his rib. One of the risks you take. I’ll let him elaborate, but suffice it to say, he’ll be waiting until he heals good and proper before he gets up again. (Drat! – P)
We arrived to Antigua after a 48 hour, wind on the nose, sail in only 3 tacks. It was a bit of a rough trip, but short. We had to get ourselves back in the groove of things, as we’d been lazing about in BVI for nearly 3 months. Admittedly, if we didn’t have friends to meet, we may have spent our entire season in the BVI.
Goodbye to North Sound VGDarn wind coming right from Antigua. Couple of tacks before we get there.Nevis is sight as we tack toward her to get to Antigua.We could just barely make out Redonda at twilight as we headed toward Nevis.Hopefully see Antigua in the morning.Morning light Land Ho! Antigua.
We checked in at Jolly Harbour, a pleasant little bay with mooring balls and the option to anchor outside of the bay in plenty of sand. It hosts a few restaurants, a full sized grocery store, and a Budget Marine store for boating supplies. We ran into friends from our Christmas pot luck, Tony and Jill, at the Budget Marine store. They were docking their boat for 3 weeks to fly home. We spent one night here and headed around to Falmouth Harbour to await the arrival of our friends from White Rock, Laurie & Joe.
Now time for sleep after 47 hour trek
As we were walking around the town of Falmouth, we ran into another couple at the Budget Marine outlet, Ann and John. They also joined our Xmas pot luck. What are the chances of running into two couples within two days. Ann invited us for G&T’s (gin and tonics) aboard Folie a’deux for happy hour. We headed back to our boat, to find that the anchor had dragged and we were 180 feet from where we left her. Luckily we had plenty of room, but we turned on the motors and reset it good and proper before heading for our happy hour. Note to self, test the anchor at 1500+ rpm every time.
Friends arrived from the airport on Saturday the 22nd of March. We invited Ann and John and their friend Stephanie to join us for dinner. I made Dahl which everyone enjoyed with rice. Simple food with good friends. A most enjoyable evening was had by all. These are the times we really enjoy having the large cockpit of a catamaran.
The following day we walked over to English Harbour and enjoyed looking in the shops and checking out all the boats that would be starting in the RORC Caribbean 600 race to start on Monday. Sunday evening after dinner, Laurie brought out a portable piano. You see they are the keepers of our piano while we cruise. Laurie thought we might be missing it. We had good fun playing around with it.
Monday morning at 10 am the RORC Caribbean 600 race boats were leaving the harbour. Paul and Joe took lots of pictures. They all had to pass the jury boat in Falmouth Harbour not far from where we were anchored so we even saw the boats that came out of English Harbour when they came into Falmouth to pass the jury boat. There were 53 boats in the race which went 600 nautical miles around several Caribbean Islands. The fastest one finished in 2 days and 5 minutes (unbelievable).
Over the course of the next week we circumnavigated the island of Antigua, beginning with a return to Jolly Harbour to provision for the week. This followed with a 2 day stay in Deep Bay on the north west side of the island. Here P & I snorkeled over the sunken ship the Andes. All of us hiked up the hill to the old fort and we all enjoyed the wide expansive beach (especially Charlie).
Deep Bay first nightA surprise in the morning – didn’t they tell him he couldn’t drive on land.Fort Berrington, just a short walk away, albeit a bit steepJoe pointing the way up – looks like the goats are following his direction – or is it the other way around?Photo Op prior to the final steep ascentAt the top of Fort Barrington – a commanding view of St John and the area aroundDeep Bay from the FortLaurie and Joe atop Fort Bennigton.Gwyn, Paul, and Charlie at Fort BarringtonThe way down starts with some dicey stairs and a short tunnelSteep descent, Blue sky at top left of picture in Deep BayCharlie showing his fetch the ball swimming style, reward after the climb.
Next we had a pleasant sail around to the north to Long Island. This island is mainly private, with a security guard who arrived to the one bit of beach that was not in front of any homes. He wanted to be sure I knew not to go anywhere near the homes on the island. I told him I would only need this small amount of beach in order to exercise my dog. Charlie was very good and didn’t even bark at the guard, which is rare for him not to react to someone approaching me. No one else came ashore, as it was pleasant enough to swim and enjoy the sunset from the boat.
Joe became expert at tacking as we beat across the north side of Antigua. Charlie and Paul relaxed.Laurie relaxed (as best she could) in the cockpit. Was a tad bumpy.
The next morning we chose to do a longer sail and make our way over to Nonesuch Bay. We’d heard good things about the bay. For the first time, Laurie and Joe got to experience heading into the wind while under sail. Not as pleasant as previous trips. We tried to go in through a very narrow channel on the east side of the bay, but our charts appeared to be inaccurate and we found ourselves uncomfortably close to the rocks on the reef. We did a U-turn and went in the larger channel on the south west of the island.
We picked up a mooring ball right next to the beach of Green Island (free mooring). We wanted to show L & J how we use a mooring ball. Only problem was there was no line attached, so it was more challenging to get attached to it. P figured it out and we backed up to it and tied on, then walked the ball forward to tie on. The second line was handed up from the paddleboard. We spend one night on the mooring ball, then moved to anchor in Brown Bay next to a pleasant place called Harmony Hill. To get to the restaurant and art gallery located in an old plantation house, you walk through a winding path with hummingbirds (at least a dozen or more) flitting around you. Aloe plants were in bloom along the path. The bar of the restaurant is located in the old stone sugar mill tower. We took the steps up the outside to find nice benches at the top where one could enjoy a cocktail.
View from sugar mill east to the reef and Green IslandView from the old sugar mill tower at Harmony Hall
Coming down from the Sugar mill tower at Brown Bay The view from where Laurie and Joe treated us to a fine meal later that evening at Harmony Hall. Delicious!
Path to the dinghy dock from Harmony Hall – hummingbirds loved the shoots off the succulents. Hummingbird in flight – more darn fast.
See the hummingbird? Blends in beautifully. Another hummingbird.
Finally a hummingbird pose. Crazy kite surfer (see him?) in Nonesuch Bay. Sun almost down.
The first night we were alone in the bay. We all swam, paddled and snorkeled for two days here. On the Saturday evening we were treated to a lovely dinner at the Harmony Hill restaurant. On Sunday, L&J arranged for a taxi to the airport at 12:30. We can’t believe how quickly the week flew by with our first house guests.
After our guests left, P & I felt a little lost. We were getting used to having friends around and enjoyed it so much. Laurie had left us a Seinfeld DVD set, so we watched the first 4 episodes. Given we haven’t had any movies and we don’t download it is very nice to watch a little TV. Neither of us had seen many episodes of Seinfeld, so it’s great entertainment for us.
We’ve decided to stay in Nonsuch Bay for about a week. So more on that later.
So late yesterday we tracked down an errant Fedex package (left on the delivery boat for 24 hours) and now we have to sort out some financial affairs – meaning another voyage to Road Town. But not before we enjoyed a walk on our favorite path with apple turnovers freshly baked followed by a surprise appearance of a turtle back at the boat. (since there is no perspective in the photo, the turtles estimated breadth was 3 feet. Thought it was trash, but a head suddenly popped up
Our favorite walkOne of the many gotta relax spots on the walkFull Moon over BEYC
Road town is starting to become a milk run. But the winds gods threw another wrinkle in this voyage with a trip starting at a mild 10 knots followed shortly after by 30 knot gusts then calming to a pretty steady 14-19 knots. Our delight was that we seemed to be blowing by all the monohulls (which usually mock us on upwind). As the winds settled in we found ourselves on a lively happy passage for a Lagoon 420 with true winds at 100 and apparent around 80 with speeds in the 8.2 to 8.8 knots steady. So now we know Blue Sky’s sweet spot with gusts of 25 pushing us over 9. Love it. The end result is we blew into Road Town in 2.5 hours from North Sound and then dove into the challenge of finding the FedEx office, parts at the kitchen shop and chandelry, followed by big time provisioning at Rite Way. Now its time to relax at twilight in bouncy Road Town.
Manana is the beginning of a voyage to Antigua to meet friends. Bit of an upwind slog so we shall have to see how it works out.
Today was an ordinary day filled with chores.Paul made bread in the pressure cooker for the first time (very tasty). He wanted to try this as it saves on propane as do all the meals we make in the pressure cooker. If you’ve never tried cooking this way, it really is amazing. I was sold the first time we made baked potatoes in it. The fuel it saves is amazing. I did a few loads of laundry and made a batch of Ginger Snap Granola.
It’s usually a blue sky morning on days that I do laundry. I need the fair weather to stand a good chance of getting things dried out. Go figure, I get everything hanging out to dry when a cloud comes over the hill of the island and it starts to rain. We rush out and pull all the clothes off the rails, the rain passes in about 5-10 minutes. and then I go out and rehang it. This usually goes on once or twice before everything is dry. A little frustrating, but I do love the way the clothes dry naturally wrinkle free, especially the sheets.
Yesterday I went to the vet to have Charlie’s international health certificate updated in preparation to go down island. A fairly straight forward task, with the exception that not all taxi drivers want a dog in their vehicle. That said, Charlie got put into the knap sack for the ride in the taxi. Meanwhile, Paul stayed in Tortola and got the propane tank refilled and went to the hardware store. We me up at the grocery store about an hour later to buy a few provisions. We followed that with a sail back to Virgin Gorda.
We are currently awaiting a FedEx package, which we just discovered was delayed due to weather in the US. It should have arrived today, and now it will arrive Thursday. We need the package before we leave for Antigua, so we wait. With luck it will be here and we can still depart on Friday. The weather looks good so far. We are crossing our fingers that it all works out.
Of course, it is always a joy to starting your day seeing this out the window. Sunrise this morning