So with Yoga, paddling, and swimming, we get lots of exercise, not to mention numerous dives to scrub the hulls and get rid of all the hitchhikers. But today, we decided it was time to exercise land legs. Charlie cast 2 votes in favor of this one. So off we went through the mangroves to a place called Biras Creek and a narrow strip of land separating the breaking surf east side of the island from North Sound. We started out hopeful we would catch a glimpse of an Iguana which Gwyn had spotted just once a couple weeks ago. Lots of these little geckos scurrying around and more inviting resort spaces, but where are the Iguanas? (click photos for a larger image)
Lots of these little geckos but where are the big Iguanas?At the end of the trail, a funky resort.A pool sprang out of nowhereNow if you are not on a boat, this isn’t hard to take.
Then as we were meandering along a road, we saw this quaint little sign followed shortly ahead by the beastie itself!
Is this a hint?Sure ’nuff, an Iguana in Iguana alley.He thinks he’s hidden but the tail is a bit of a giveaway.
Mission accomplished! But we were in for another surprise on the way back through the mangroves.
A snake?!No, just an Iguana who thinks we can’t see his tail
Doing a good job of blending in
So it was a great long hike with sights along the way. Even Charlie was a bit worn out opting for only a short play with his ball at the beach when we got back. Our granddaughter, Janiah (9), loves lizards! So we hope you enjoy the Iguanas, Janiah. We were thinking of you today!
It’s been a few weeks since we’ve blogged. You may be thinking that we’ve been super busy or something, but reality is we’ve been getting overly relaxed in North Sound, Virgin Gorda. We stayed in the first anchored spot near Prickly Pear Island for 11 nights, then for a change of scenery, we moved about a mile south, nearer to Bitter End. Both places afford us the luxury of getting free WiFi on the boat courtesy of Saba Rock Bar & Resort.
What, another shower?Rainbow over $3M+ Gunboat
We’ve had many days of high gusty winds, combined with sunshine and passing rain showers/squalls. We’ve enjoyed rainbows, sunsets, games of scrabble, reading, cooking and eating nice healthy meals. We’ve also established our own methods of staying fit with yoga, calisthenics, swimming, paddling and hiking. The days are passing by quite unbelievably fast.
And the meals get better every day!
Now into February we are beginning our preparations to travel south to Antigua (it’s time we went somewhere new). We’ve sent off Charlie’s paperwork to the Antigua vet and obtained his approval. On Friday we take Charlie for his clearing out exam at the vet in Paraquita Bay on Tortola. That will follow with some final provisioning and then back to North Sound to wait for the weather window. Rules say that we must arrive at the new port within 7 days of Charlie’s clearance to depart. So by Feb 14th we should be in Antigua, God willing.
Charlie and P coming back from a romp/swim ashore
Paul has been pulling wires that were connected for our trip, but never pulled behind the walls/floors. After all, it would be nice for our house guests to be able to close the door to the guest room. I know he’s much more relaxed, as he now does these tasks without so much as a single curse. Amazing what 3 months of floating on your boat can do.
Gee this is so easy and fun now that I’m relaxed
Meanwhile, family back home have been experiencing the drones of winter. Our daughter, Chy, slipped and fell on some ice and broke her wrist, which required a surgical repair. As a mother it’s difficult to be away from home when such accidents occur. There’s nothing you can do from so far away, but provide virtual support and prayers. Other family members we hear from so infrequently, that we trust the old saying, ‘No news, is good news’. They are all old enough to care for themselves, but the parent in us always enjoys an update now and then. Just know that we think of everyone back home on a daily basis.
It’s been awhile since I posted. Paul has been handling the posts lately. Today he finally networked all the computers/tablets to our Wi-Fi extender. This means no more using data on our phone to get into the internet as here in North Sound, Virgin Gorda the free Wi-Fi reaches us at anchor.
On Sunday I had a birthday. Paul was full of surprises. He bought me a nice sun dress, which I wore to Saba Rock Bar in the evening to have a few Caribbean Painkillers (rummy yummy) and some appetizers which we now consider a meal. He also bought me a luggage scale (to weigh the propane tanks .. yes, I worry about running out of propane while in the middle of cooking dinner), a sarong, another dress, a glass Turtle from Green VI (a not for profit glass studio here in the BVI), and the biggest surprise of all .. a bug zapper. I love the bug zapper. I’ve not got much opportunity to use it yet, but I know when we return to the Chesapeake next summer, there will be plenty of fun. I did finish off a big moth type thing the other night and fed it’s remains to the fishes. I guess I’m a little sadistic when it comes to flies, mosquitoes, and moths.
With the birthday over I’ve since read three books in as many days. Now we are really getting down to relaxing. Not that we don’t do other things, because we do. I do laundry, cook most meals, was floors and windows, exercise myself and Charlie. Paul makes water, takes care of technical issues, overhauls our dinghy motor, repairs things that break, exercise himself and Charlie. All in all our days pass by in a flash. I have no idea how I ever got anything done when I worked full time. Oh yeah, well I wasn’t reading all that much, maybe a book a month, and I wasn’t getting as much exercise, etc. But still, retirement is fun.
The day after my birthday, I spotted a pink flamingo on shore near our boat. Paul pulled out his camera and snapped a few shots. What a joy, as we’d hoped to see flamingos on Anagada when we were there, but didn’t. So this really excited me. Two days later we saw the same flamingo in flight heading south. No pictures of this one as it moved off too fast, but what a beauty. They are so big and bright pink.
Early morning spotted the flamingo in the marshToo bad the mangrove tree got in the way. The bird was very large.
Yesterday, I took the dinghy ashore without Paul for the first time. I managed to start it myself, put in into and out of gear and land it without much issue. It still messes with my head when I steer it, especially when I go from reverse to forward, I found myself heading the wrong way more than once, but I made it to shore and back and the motor still runs like a charm. I didn’t flood it or anything like that.
I still can’t believe I’m retired and living on a boat that happens to be in the Caribbean while everyone back home is dealing with rain and snow and cold. How lucky is that? I do need to remind those who hope to follow a similar path, that it took some footwork and some level of guts to sell off the house and put stuff into storage for an extended period of time. Basically you have to trust that your new home will always be afloat, that you will find yourself in safe harbour during a storm, and that you have the strength to manage when you find yourself in tough situations. There are days when you miss your family and wish you could just pick up what you need at the store for your next meal. But the warmth and relaxation is great. Am I grateful? You bet I am, every minute of every day.
We finally had to tear ourselves away from Cane Garden Bay. The fish had taken up permanent residence under the boat, each with their assigned duties. The ones at the stern were silver blue about 3 inches long and frenetic. We had 6 black ones that hung out around the chain, presumably monitoring any tendency to drag. Then we had the millions of little ones that hung out in the shadow and the big boss fish in the center of the boat. Sad to break up the newly developed ecosystem but we were running low on groceries so off to West End (Soper’s Hole) for a quick provisioning stop.
Cane Garden Bay had many light showers with resulting rainbows Cane Garden continued producing beautiful sunsets
After provisioning we enjoyed a close hauled sail from there back to Norman Island for a peaceful night at the Bight. However, we don’t like all the mooring balls so the next day we went around the corner to Benure’s Bay. We loved it there. Blue Sky in Benure’s Bay looking north – a favorite anchorage
Just a few other boats at anchor and tremendous snorkeling in clear water – not to mention the wind protection was even better than the Bight. One day we set off on a hike, missed the trail, and in true bushwhacker style G, Charlie, and I clawed our way up a steep 120 meter hill. We knew a jeep trail ran along the ridge so we just had to keep going up. The jeep trail was much easier walking so we hiked across the island back to the Bight with some gorgeous sights along the way. The foliage was a little dense on the way to the jeep trail. Not obvious in photo but incline angle was about 30 degrees. Money Bay looking east on the south side of Norman Island – beautiful
Norman island looking southwest from the top of the ridge The Bight on Norman seen from the top of the island on our hike
After 3 days, we were getting comfortable again but lacked provisions so we had a quick beam reach sail over to Road Town on Tortola but not before stopping at the Indians for some morning snorkeling. Finally was brave enough to take my camera swimming. It was beautiful but we definitely preferred Benure’s and the caves for clarity and variety of fish. The Indians up close where we snorkeledWater was a bit stirred up but here is one fellow who kept following me.A couple other fish keeping watch.
Then it was on to Road Town and a heavy duty stock up grocery shopping plus propane and some fix-it items. It was just a lot of grunt work collecting all we needed and haul it to the dinghy and back to the boat. Transferring it onto Blue Sky in two foot steep chop with the occasional ferry wake much bigger proved to be a tremendous workout. Happy to say everything and everyone made it to the boat with with no one/thing going for a swim.
The next morning on the 18th was a bit more resupplying followed by a great sail back to North Sound on Virgin Gorda. The wind gods nicely moved the east wind to the southeast about 1/2 hour into the almost 4 hour trip which meant we could sail direct, albeit close hauled. We are now happily anchored and will be celebrating G’s birthday today. More on that later. Classic sailboat enjoying the breeze
Cane Garden Bay is remaining delightful with north swell surf crashing in on our port side, a reef with numerous fish on starboard, beach and town forward with a beautiful view of the sunset aft with St Thomas a way off. It is being easy to get comfortable here and dig into books, small repairs, puzzles and a myriad other things. Surf rolling in from the North
Actually that surf looks kinda small. However, up close the waves were 6-7 feet at times and this guy made the most of it:
We had a wonderful encounter with the folks at GreenVI Glass Studio where they turn glass recycled from the bars into some beautiful glassware. It is nonprofit and the artisans are local and apprenticed, learning a creative trade. Soon they will be converting to using the discarded cooking oil from the bars to fire the kilns taking a huge step toward carbon neutral. We were treated to a demonstration of making a starfish similar to the one we bought which is being used as a tea bag or spoon holder on the boat. GreenVI, a must see, and the people were friendly and fun. Find them on GreenVI facebook or their short GreenVI mission statement here. GreenVI starfish – now our tea bag/spoon holder
Having run often with Charlie at the beach, we decided it was time to sample one of the bars – Quito’s was chosen and what a delightful choice. Stella, our server, was cheery, efficient, and very down to earth. She really made our evening! Of course a few painkillers didn’t hurt. But the Mahi Mahi was the surprise – cooked perfectly with a fresh flavor that beats any other restaurant we have eaten at in the BVI. And it was a happy hour appetizer at only $5. Talk about value! We retired early to the boat to listen to the live music coming across the water. We are about a quarter of a mile from the beach – just right for privacy and peace, but close enough to sit at night on the foredeck, listen to the live music and watch the stars – that is until the odd shower shows up. Quito’s with the red roof slightly left of center
Bottom line is we have come to enjoy the earthiness feel to Cane Garden (not just a resort mentality) and the people we have met. GreenVI – bravo, keep it happening. Stella (previously from Burbank), we wish you all the happiness and good fortune as you choose to follow your dreams! Sunset view with St Thomas low in the background